We got to the ferry port about three hours early! Just as well because the cab dropped us off at the wrong one. We were told the international one was a 500 m walk, whatever!!! We finally arrived there and I was fit to drop it was so hot! We sat around for a while then I decided to look at the few souvenir stalls that were dotted around. There were some lovely bags so I decided to get one so I could empty out my belongings from my computer bag cos it was so heavy. I bought a sweet little back pack. Finally it was time to board and Jaron told me we were booked in 3rd class! I had a bad bad feeling. Was it going to be like the ferry on the charity programme I'd seen on tv where you sat on the deck with 3oo other people? We boarded and was directed by a smiling, bowing steward. OMG- it was a deck with no seats and 300 other people. I was so tired and I was looking forward to sitting somewhere comfortable so I could sleep fir the 4 1/2 hour journey. being out in the middle of the sea with no sight of land was really freaking me out so that and feeling really hot. hungry and tired was turning me into an irritable and weepy monster. I told Jaron to go and upgrade us or something. I was not going to lay down and sleep in front of all those strangers. He went of and found out that for about 4 quid we could upgrade. We didn't realise but there were no seats on this ferry. It was totally Asian style and people were quite happy to sit on mats for the duration of the journey. We eventually wangled a cabin on our own that had cushions and a tv. The stewardess tried to put us in a small cabin with 6 other guys but I so wasn't having that! I was in Prima donna mode!!
We settled in our cabin and Jaron was happy because it had a tv. We went of in search of food and I noticed that the upper deck had massage chairs. I ate quickly and made my way up there. I had the most wonderful nap and felt quite happy afterwards. I even sat on the deck outside for a bit and got over the fact that I couldn't see land. We eventually arrived in Mokpo and got a taxi to out hotel. The room was small and clean but it was totally Korean with bed rolls instead of beds. Jaron could not get the internet to work so after the very handsome Korean man tried and failed to fix it we were moved to another room. we spent a fairly comfortable night there and in the morning we made our way to the bus station. On the way there we saw a western man who took his shades off and stared at us for a while. I thought that maybe he was surprised because you don't get too many westerners in that area.
We boarded our bus and we were finally on our way to Gwangju, a place I was really looking forward to visiting. Incidentally, the Korean accent in that part of Korea is very different from Seoul and I think it sounds really cute.
we arrived in Gwangju and found a motel very easily - one with beds!! It was clean and comfy and near the bus station. The next morning we went to see the Gwangju memorial
( see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gwangju_Democratization_Movement ) Having seen the film May 18th and having read a bit about it I was keen to visit Gwangju. I think the Gwangju people are so brave and they have that rebellious streak that I admire. It was so touching to see the wall that was inscribed with the names of the people who died during the uprising. They were real heroes and most of them were young students who would be around my age now. This terrible incident happened in living memory (1980) and in so called civilised times. People who nowadays moan about the lack of freedom etc. in the western world should shut up as far as I am concerned. They don't know what real lack of freedom is. Dying because you don't agree with the status quo, dying because you dare to voice an opinion, dying because you are standing up for real human rights.......that's lack of freedom. Rant over!!! After we left the memorial we found a really beautiful temple. it was prayer time and the whole atmosphere was very spiritual.
Anyway I loved Gwangju! We went for a look around the main streets, looking for the two street where the uprising started. On our stroll we met the westerner from Mokpo. he turned out be a really nice American guy called David. He was teaching English in a small town near Mokpo. We had a bit of a chat with him and then moved on. While I was in Gwangju I bought a translater for half the price I would pay back home. That means I will have to work harder at my Korean now!
We moved on to Busan the next day, We got a bus which was comfy so I could have a sleep. The last few days had been a bit rainy and stormy so I was worried about the bus journey. Korean roads can be scary at the best of time especially the express ways. It started to rain heavily so I closed my eyes. I thought if I'm going to die ...please let it be while I'm sleeping!
We actually arrived in Busan alive!!! OMG it was so hot! We got a cab to the motel area and found one within our price range. The motels there were more expensive because it is a holiday town. We stayed in the color motel - and it WAS very colourful! As I was waiting outside while Jaron checked it out I noticed that the building opposite was the community service office. Was it community service as in the UK where naughty people pay their debt to society, I wondered? Well that was confirmed as a resounding 'yes' when a very irate young man emerged from the building looking at a piece of paper and cursing loudly in korean (yes, I have managed to learn Korean swear words!) That and the fact there was a huge nightclud in the same road daunted me a bit but I thought 'what the hell, live dangerously'. The motel was a bit over the top but quite nice really. The toiletries were nice and the shower was fantastic. We went to a meat restaurant for dinner and it was great. Three types of meat and ribs, rice and two beers for about 7 quid each. The side dishes were lovely and the service and atmosphere was good. We wandered around a bit but had an earlyish night so we could go out the next day.
The next day we went exploring the shopping area. They certainly must love Lee Junki there because King and the Clown posters were hung all along one of the street, He is a Busan boy so quite rightly they must be proud of him. We then went to Haeundae beach which was very nice. it was fun to see the place that the film was set in - (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tidal_Wave_(film). It was a pretty area and we had a very enjoyable ice cream in the Baskin Robbins. On the way back we stopped of in a large shopping mall and had a look around. I was imagining I was rich and looking at all the designer gear I could buy if money was no object! We also visited the port and the fish market. It was very interesting and very smelly!
That night we ate one of my favourite meals Dak Galbi (see:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dak_galbi ) I'm so going to learn to cook that when I get home. We got up the next morning and took a cab to Busan station so we could get the KTX back to Seoul. I loved Busan. The people there have a really cute accent and there was so many handsome men there, We've come to the conclusion that the further south you go the hotter the men! Probably not true, just a coincidence.
Before I end this part I must have one last rant. Mosquitoes! Bloody, evil, bloodsucking monsters! Last year when I was here I got bitten once. This time because I've been in warmer areas of the country I have been bitten 25,000 times! i even have a bite on the palm of my hand. Well at the last count I'd say about 49 times! I itch like a mofu b***ch! I stink of repellent but they still want my blood! I hate them with a passion you cannot imagine. I'm not one for wanting to hurt another living creature...spiders are quite safe in my house. But these evil little flying, no good for nothing ogres should be wiped off the face of the earth never to return! I have done some research and they serve no useful purpose at all. Some scientist even hold the opinion that if they were eradicated it would not effect the eco - system at all. So if there are any scientists out there looking for a new project please find a way to kill every single one of them please. They are the only living creatures I want to see extinct!!! The spooky thing is, all the time I've been here I haven't actually seen one. They sneak out during the night like vampires and drink your blood, then hide away during the day.